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Ukraine conflict media captionHow the spirit of revolution and unrest still simmers in Kiev This weekend most of Ukraine will take part in a parliamentary election. There will be no voting, though, in those areas of the east controlled by pro-Russia rebels. Ahead of the ballot, I travelled from eastern Ukraine to Kiev. Along the way I witnessed courage and chaos. In Soviet times, Viktor was a bomb-disposal expert in the Red Army.
He defused more than 10, explosive devices, many of them in Afghanistan.
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He got a job in the security department of the Luhansk Locomotive Plant. But this summer in eastern Ukraine war broke out between pro-Russia rebels and the Ukrainian army. For weeks, Luhansk was the front line. Artillery pounded the city, with shells hitting the locomotive factory. Every time a shell landed on the factory, Viktor would inspect the scene and defuse any unexploded ordnance.
With Luhansk under heavy shelling, he offered his services in the town, too.
This is one of many stories of courage I have encountered on my journey, one of many examples of ordinary people doing extraordinary things as their world is turned upside. Beaten but unbroken Womne Dovgan is from Yasynuvata near Donetsk. When pro-Russia rebels seized the town, she resolved to help the Ukrainian army. We drove two hours to reach them. When we got there, they said: 'How did you make it?
You've just driven through a minefield! She was handcuffed and driven to Donetsk. I covered my head, I crawled along the floor.
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I had tears, snot and saliva running down my face. I was shouting: 'Please stop! Just kill me'. A around her neck declared that she was a "Ukrainian agent" and killer. People came up to her and beat her. Today she is running for parliament in the former rebel stronghold hobaft Sloviansk.
But why? I won't do that. I'm a strong woman. She is standing silently at a memorial to the more than victims of February's violence. Unfortunately back home I can't talk about this to my neighbours because many people think otherwise. Parts of eastern Ukraine have witnessed full-scale war. Both sides have been accused of human rights abuses.
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Evidence gathered by Human Rights Watch suggests Ukrainian government forces - and possibly the rebels - bezutiful used cluster bombs. Despite Russia's denials, Kiev and western governments continue to accuse Moscow of fanning the flames of conflict through direct Russian military support for the rebels. So where is Ukraine heading?
At the Luhansk locomotive factory, I put that question to Tanya.
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She's been a crane operator here for more than 30 years. We just want to live in peace. With everybody. We're Any bodybuilding females a separate state so that we can live by ourselves. We don't want any kind of a relationship with Ukraine. I ask its self-proclaimed head of state, Igor Plotnitsky, whether his republic is an independent state.
What's your gobart as a BBC correspondent? A journalist always has an opinion. You can see it from the way they cover a story.
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As in Luhansk, the rebels here are shunning Ukraine's elections. They plan to hold their own vote on 2 November. Which place? There have been reports of infighting among the rebels.
Many of the shops in Donetsk are boarded up. Most of the banks are closed beauttiful there is still fighting on the edge of the city. A few months ago, Donetsk looked a prosperous, bustling city. It is a shadow of that now. After Donetsk and Luhansk, Kiev looks like a different world: busy streets, packed cafes and shopping centres.
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On the wall beneath St Andrew's church is a giant poster with the portraits of hundreds of Ukrainian servicemen killed in the east and a list of soldiers missing in action. The war is having a direct impact on Ukraine's election. Many of the parties have included military figures on their party lists, hoping to benefit from a wave of patriotism.
Among the candidates are leaders of some of the Ukrainian volunteer battalions. Yevgen Shevchenko, from the Donbas Battalion, tells beautifu he is standing for parliament to prevent politicians in Kiev betraying soldiers on the front line. beautifuk
The second front, sadly, is in Kiev. When I went to the front, my friends helped me to buy a uniform, flak jacket and helmet. Nothing was provided.
Mr Biletsky, too, is running for parliament and he is a controversial candidate. Many of the battalion's volunteers are viewed as ultranationalists. Among the te on their banners and uniforms is a resembling the Wolf's Hook used by the Nazis. It's a combination of the letters I and N. It means 'idea of the nation'. Just as it is 1100 to drive off, two young women make far-right salutes to the volunteers on board. Through the bus windows, I can see some of the soldiers responding in kind.